Nostalgia - it is a word that conjures a variety of responses. Is it a good thing? The word emanates with emotion, loss and seperation of the past. The illusion of something no longer tangible, a memory of the senses, of time and space long past....and yet we search for that point in time and try and relive it.
For me returning to my home city is full of loss and seperation...things just aren't the same but I still carry these illusions around with me.
The River seems narrow, the ferry ride not as long or splendid as my childhood memories would have me believe. My school is now a Tesco Supermarket and my old house in Wavertree is a mecca for student housing and appears barren and lacking in any character. And yet so many memories linger there for me - and that is what nostalgia is truly - only memories.
There is no connection between past and now - only illusion or nostalgia if you like to use a sweeter word. It is all Maya - illusion and as in Buddhism one of the first major teachings of impermanence....its a hard one to accept.
I think perhaps the focus on this hour, this minute and this day is the ony way to survive nostalgia...be in the moment and live it to the fullest. Yet there still is a part of me that wants to rediscover somewhere here to give me a glimpse back in time to the world I once lived in.....such is life...
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Saturday, June 18, 2011
A Brief Landing in Amsterdam
A few days in this lovely city visiting with the K Clan is always relaxed and enjoyable.
You know you are in Amsterdam when the first thing you see is a man riding his bicycle carrying a double base - also the sweet and exotic scents emanating from various establishments purtaining to be "coffee shops".
The Reichsmuseum still under wraps but the art available for viewing is remarkable and I am so in love with the amazing, delectable and still images captured by the phenomenal painter Vermeer....
Very groovy meeting up with G, my Victoria friend and having a nice glass of vino in the unexplicably gorgeous Tuschinski Theatre foyer.
Ahh ..goodbye Amsterdam ...until the next time!
You know you are in Amsterdam when the first thing you see is a man riding his bicycle carrying a double base - also the sweet and exotic scents emanating from various establishments purtaining to be "coffee shops".
The Reichsmuseum still under wraps but the art available for viewing is remarkable and I am so in love with the amazing, delectable and still images captured by the phenomenal painter Vermeer....
Very groovy meeting up with G, my Victoria friend and having a nice glass of vino in the unexplicably gorgeous Tuschinski Theatre foyer.
Ahh ..goodbye Amsterdam ...until the next time!
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Constantinople
I have mixed feelings about being in Turkey - I love the history and the age of the place and the mosques and monuments are phenomenal. This city was once called New Rome before Constantine came alone ...it was the centre of the Western World - almost the Western world.
Actually only 3 percent of Turkey is in Europe and the rest of the country is in Asia or as the Turks prefer _ Anatolia. Istanbul is a huge city and he one of the most unfathomable I have been in. When I arrived I saw the hundreds of homes with swimming pools - I thought I was flying over California - there is a rich elite here and yet like most 3rd world countries the animals wander hungry in the street.
It is a stark difference to Nepal where everybody seems poor - almost. Not to be judgemental as the Turks seem, for the most part to be nice and friendly and open. The younger people anyway. I find the older men difficult to relate to. They talk at me and not to me - usually trying to sell me something and speaking to me in a polite but patronising way. One shopkeeper told me he had everything I wanted...haha - I could have given him the finger as we say but he wouldnt have got it.
There are lots of Muslim women in headscarves but looking fashionable and engaged in the modern world. I find it very difficult to accept the full black garb with a slit for the eyes - yashmak - I saw one family with the woman in full blackness and her husband and son dressed in modern western wear - it was very odd and displaced...I just don't get it...
Some of the Muslim traditions are wonderful and have a purity to them - the lack of idolatory in the Mosques is interesting - simplicity reigns supreme and there is a positive quality there that I understand.
What I like about Turkey is the seperation of church and state as we say in the west. Politics is seperate from religeon and in a country that is 95 percent Suni and 5 percent Shiite. The food is pretty good except for the ice cream.
I haven't tried the ice cream but two Brits I met on a tour said it is terrible stuff and has the texture of chewing gum and bears little resemblance to ice cream as we know it.
Went to Princes Islands today - well one of them - it was like a Greek Island full of tourists and cafes and nice but in no way special for me. It was my second trip on the Bospherous and the novelty has worn off...too spoilt with my own view of mountains and ocean in the Big C.
Interestingly though as the Bospherous leads to the Black Sea there is a lot of traffic but the ships have to wait their turn as the sea is getting narrower and there is now control of shipping lanes. No one pays to go through this sea that seperates the two parts of Turkey and war ships are not allowed to pass.
The other thing I like about Turkey is the fact that they are taking in the refugees from Syria..good baclava too!
Actually only 3 percent of Turkey is in Europe and the rest of the country is in Asia or as the Turks prefer _ Anatolia. Istanbul is a huge city and he one of the most unfathomable I have been in. When I arrived I saw the hundreds of homes with swimming pools - I thought I was flying over California - there is a rich elite here and yet like most 3rd world countries the animals wander hungry in the street.
It is a stark difference to Nepal where everybody seems poor - almost. Not to be judgemental as the Turks seem, for the most part to be nice and friendly and open. The younger people anyway. I find the older men difficult to relate to. They talk at me and not to me - usually trying to sell me something and speaking to me in a polite but patronising way. One shopkeeper told me he had everything I wanted...haha - I could have given him the finger as we say but he wouldnt have got it.
There are lots of Muslim women in headscarves but looking fashionable and engaged in the modern world. I find it very difficult to accept the full black garb with a slit for the eyes - yashmak - I saw one family with the woman in full blackness and her husband and son dressed in modern western wear - it was very odd and displaced...I just don't get it...
Some of the Muslim traditions are wonderful and have a purity to them - the lack of idolatory in the Mosques is interesting - simplicity reigns supreme and there is a positive quality there that I understand.
What I like about Turkey is the seperation of church and state as we say in the west. Politics is seperate from religeon and in a country that is 95 percent Suni and 5 percent Shiite. The food is pretty good except for the ice cream.
I haven't tried the ice cream but two Brits I met on a tour said it is terrible stuff and has the texture of chewing gum and bears little resemblance to ice cream as we know it.
Went to Princes Islands today - well one of them - it was like a Greek Island full of tourists and cafes and nice but in no way special for me. It was my second trip on the Bospherous and the novelty has worn off...too spoilt with my own view of mountains and ocean in the Big C.
Interestingly though as the Bospherous leads to the Black Sea there is a lot of traffic but the ships have to wait their turn as the sea is getting narrower and there is now control of shipping lanes. No one pays to go through this sea that seperates the two parts of Turkey and war ships are not allowed to pass.
The other thing I like about Turkey is the fact that they are taking in the refugees from Syria..good baclava too!
Friday, June 10, 2011
ISTANBUL - 5 MILLION PEOPLE
I arrived in Istanbul feeling quite excited - I felt I was going to a really magical place - at least in my dreams of the past - dare I say it almost 60 years.
Nice landing, fast baggage pick up and the fastest visa acquisition in my history - especially compared to the rabble attack in Kathmandhu. Fastest 15 Euros I ever spent too. All is good and head for the exit - ATM works and dispenses a reasonable amount of Turkish Lira to me. Turkey is not in the Common Market and is doing quite well compared to places like Greece and Spain.
No one in line for information either - this is a new feeling at an airport where I usually have a bit of trouble finding information. Find the tram in the subway armed with my change of stop direction. There are these orange plastic circles called Jetons that one acquires from machines for the sum of 1.75 Lira. It took two Jetons to get to Sultanhamet which is the old area of Istanbul and where I am staying.
I was immediately aware that the Blue Mosque was readily in view throughout most of Sultanhamet so all the hotels claiming to have a view really couldn't help it. It was 29 degrees and I dragged my suitcase downhilee and headed for the area pointed out as where all the accommodation resided. I finally found my hotel and was told a mistake had been made and I was given a room in another hotel just a few seconds away. It was a dark brown room with no view and though there was a TV the WIFI only worked on my iPhone. I wont go into the hotel fiasco but only so many things work in each room. I now have a nice view but air con barely works and I had to fix the tv myself.
The novelty has worn off a tad but I am certainly in another world. I met a couple at breakfast from this town called Nanaimo...yes...and they were quite helpful in deciding what to do. I did something I have never done before and signed up on a tour today and tomorrow. It is big and overwhelming here and I will get to see all the famous sites and have entrance paid with the tour so I have done that. Todau I did the Bospherous cruise which is the stretch of water sperating europe from Asia as far as Turkey goes. It was pleaant and I got to see a lot of the mosques and buildings. Our guide was very well informed and I got a little sense of what Istanbul looks like.
Tomorrow I will do the full day tour and that gives me 2 days to noodle around on my own and then off to Amsterdam for a few days. I will post a few pics on Crackbook.
Nice landing, fast baggage pick up and the fastest visa acquisition in my history - especially compared to the rabble attack in Kathmandhu. Fastest 15 Euros I ever spent too. All is good and head for the exit - ATM works and dispenses a reasonable amount of Turkish Lira to me. Turkey is not in the Common Market and is doing quite well compared to places like Greece and Spain.
No one in line for information either - this is a new feeling at an airport where I usually have a bit of trouble finding information. Find the tram in the subway armed with my change of stop direction. There are these orange plastic circles called Jetons that one acquires from machines for the sum of 1.75 Lira. It took two Jetons to get to Sultanhamet which is the old area of Istanbul and where I am staying.
I was immediately aware that the Blue Mosque was readily in view throughout most of Sultanhamet so all the hotels claiming to have a view really couldn't help it. It was 29 degrees and I dragged my suitcase downhilee and headed for the area pointed out as where all the accommodation resided. I finally found my hotel and was told a mistake had been made and I was given a room in another hotel just a few seconds away. It was a dark brown room with no view and though there was a TV the WIFI only worked on my iPhone. I wont go into the hotel fiasco but only so many things work in each room. I now have a nice view but air con barely works and I had to fix the tv myself.
The novelty has worn off a tad but I am certainly in another world. I met a couple at breakfast from this town called Nanaimo...yes...and they were quite helpful in deciding what to do. I did something I have never done before and signed up on a tour today and tomorrow. It is big and overwhelming here and I will get to see all the famous sites and have entrance paid with the tour so I have done that. Todau I did the Bospherous cruise which is the stretch of water sperating europe from Asia as far as Turkey goes. It was pleaant and I got to see a lot of the mosques and buildings. Our guide was very well informed and I got a little sense of what Istanbul looks like.
Tomorrow I will do the full day tour and that gives me 2 days to noodle around on my own and then off to Amsterdam for a few days. I will post a few pics on Crackbook.
Monday, June 6, 2011
RIGA - CITY OF ART NOUVEAU
After a sleepless night in the Naughty Squirrel Hostel have signed into a hotel with wondrous air con and a great view plus free breakfast.
Perhaps my backpacker days are numbered as I like the peacefulness of the hotel. Only a short tram ride to the centre with its throngs of tourists. It is a mighty different place than Tallin where the tourists move at a slower pace.
There is a tradition in Europe it seems esp with the Brits to come to these lovely cities and wreak havoc with stag nights. Louts parade around in Tshirts ascribed to their wedding affiliations wearing stupid makeup or hats etc behaving like Attila's Huns. Riga is a popular place it seems as was Prague. How to ruin a city! No wonder there are police everywhere here...ah well - I digress...
There is a plethora of the most amazing Art Nouveau buildings here and they are truly beautiful. Yesterday I went to house preserved in its decor which was on Alberta Iela. I sat at a cafe and had a salad and a local beer and paid 6 Latvian Lats which is about 12 bucks in C money - not bad really as far as costs go.
I took a few tram rides, got lost and found myself again and then went for a boat ride on the river which was extremely delightful and chatted with a local man (conductor of a choir) with his 12 year old daughter who kindly explained all about the buildings and about Latvian history.
The weather is superb and will be so for the rest of my days here going up to 29 on wednesday. There is a nice breeze too which helps with the humidity whch it seems is ever present on the Baltic.
Disappointed in the price of amber which is too high - am told it has gone up in the last year. Lots of woolen items to buy but I am travelling light this trip and wont be buying much unless it is lightweight of course.
Latvians are also very friendly and disctinct again from the sour Russians who live here. When boating on the river the man I was chatting with stood up and waved at people on the shore - they stood and looked and did not wave back - I joked with him and said, "they must be Russian" and he laughed hard and said I understood well....haha
There are well over 200 Nouveau buildings here so I shall trip around today and see the sights - the Museum of Occupation is my first call and I will try and see as much as I can. The beach is a 20 minute train ride which might be a nice way to spend the afternoon.
Go Cannucks Go!
Perhaps my backpacker days are numbered as I like the peacefulness of the hotel. Only a short tram ride to the centre with its throngs of tourists. It is a mighty different place than Tallin where the tourists move at a slower pace.
There is a tradition in Europe it seems esp with the Brits to come to these lovely cities and wreak havoc with stag nights. Louts parade around in Tshirts ascribed to their wedding affiliations wearing stupid makeup or hats etc behaving like Attila's Huns. Riga is a popular place it seems as was Prague. How to ruin a city! No wonder there are police everywhere here...ah well - I digress...
There is a plethora of the most amazing Art Nouveau buildings here and they are truly beautiful. Yesterday I went to house preserved in its decor which was on Alberta Iela. I sat at a cafe and had a salad and a local beer and paid 6 Latvian Lats which is about 12 bucks in C money - not bad really as far as costs go.
I took a few tram rides, got lost and found myself again and then went for a boat ride on the river which was extremely delightful and chatted with a local man (conductor of a choir) with his 12 year old daughter who kindly explained all about the buildings and about Latvian history.
The weather is superb and will be so for the rest of my days here going up to 29 on wednesday. There is a nice breeze too which helps with the humidity whch it seems is ever present on the Baltic.
Disappointed in the price of amber which is too high - am told it has gone up in the last year. Lots of woolen items to buy but I am travelling light this trip and wont be buying much unless it is lightweight of course.
Latvians are also very friendly and disctinct again from the sour Russians who live here. When boating on the river the man I was chatting with stood up and waved at people on the shore - they stood and looked and did not wave back - I joked with him and said, "they must be Russian" and he laughed hard and said I understood well....haha
There are well over 200 Nouveau buildings here so I shall trip around today and see the sights - the Museum of Occupation is my first call and I will try and see as much as I can. The beach is a 20 minute train ride which might be a nice way to spend the afternoon.
Go Cannucks Go!
Saturday, June 4, 2011
St Bridget's Convent, Tallin
Visited this lovely site here in Tallin which was founded in 1400s and destroyed by the Russians in one of their invasions. Rediscovered in 1930s and excavated. If you like this kind of thing then read up on it at http://www.piritaklooster.ee/eng_kloostri_ajalugu.html.
Friday, June 3, 2011
The Baltic and Back
It is my last night in Tallin and I will be sad to say goodbye to this lovely, laid-back and funky town. I say town tho it is a city and out of the 1 million people in Estonia half live here in Tallin.
It has little or no trace of its Russian occupation except some pretty ugly structures mainly defensive but grey concrete reflecting the austere and realist approach dating to the Stalin era. About a quarter of Estonians are Russian and they seem to me distinctly Russian. I coin the phrase - as rude as a Russian..haha. Estonians are not friendly but not distant and rude either - I would say they are much like Canadians - friendly when approached and helpful.
Here in the old city it is a preserved and beautiful part of Tallin and lived in rather than just looked at. It houses many tourist shops and restaurants and of course there is the usual town square surrounded by the most expensive restaurants but really not so much compared to many other cities.
Not far away there is a beach - No 1A bus to Pirita and also parks and lots of trees and green space. There is a multitude of conifers everywhere and the wonderful weather brings out the people with their kids and dogs and they seem to be a relaxed bunch, quiet and interested in enjoying themselves.
The hostel is just ok - glad t0 have a little room but the facilities are poor and there is little or no interaction among guests. Staff are friendly and helpful and I just keep thinking the place could be so much better. Still - it is in a great part of Old Tallin and there has been a music festival all week just around the corner.
I really like it here and I think it would be fun to rent a car and drive around the country and see what is outside of here...more conifers I expect.
Did I mention my fave coffee place....mmmmm-off to Riga tomorrow...hope it is half as good as Tallin.
It has little or no trace of its Russian occupation except some pretty ugly structures mainly defensive but grey concrete reflecting the austere and realist approach dating to the Stalin era. About a quarter of Estonians are Russian and they seem to me distinctly Russian. I coin the phrase - as rude as a Russian..haha. Estonians are not friendly but not distant and rude either - I would say they are much like Canadians - friendly when approached and helpful.
Here in the old city it is a preserved and beautiful part of Tallin and lived in rather than just looked at. It houses many tourist shops and restaurants and of course there is the usual town square surrounded by the most expensive restaurants but really not so much compared to many other cities.
Not far away there is a beach - No 1A bus to Pirita and also parks and lots of trees and green space. There is a multitude of conifers everywhere and the wonderful weather brings out the people with their kids and dogs and they seem to be a relaxed bunch, quiet and interested in enjoying themselves.
The hostel is just ok - glad t0 have a little room but the facilities are poor and there is little or no interaction among guests. Staff are friendly and helpful and I just keep thinking the place could be so much better. Still - it is in a great part of Old Tallin and there has been a music festival all week just around the corner.
I really like it here and I think it would be fun to rent a car and drive around the country and see what is outside of here...more conifers I expect.
Did I mention my fave coffee place....mmmmm-off to Riga tomorrow...hope it is half as good as Tallin.
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