Thursday, May 31, 2012
San Sebastian – Basque Country – Spain
Sanse or Donostia is a pristine beach resort. There are two beaches right next to each other: La Concha and La Perla. They are golden sands with a turquoise, clear ocean where children and dogs frolick happily while parents bake in the sun. For women. Going topless is no big deal and women of all ages sit or lie nonchalantly bare breasted and I saw no males ogling – it all seems just normal here.
There are Pitxos (tapas Basque style) with a lot of dried beef but also good seafood – mariscos. I had 4 pitxos with two glasses of wine for about 8 euros which I thought was a good price. Sanse is a gourmet town and is said to have the best food in Spain.
This is a perfect place – a “pearl” for a seaside visit for families and couples – as a solo traveller it was just fine I enjoyed my time there. There is a funicular railway that goes up Mt Igelda and right next to the harbour is a hill on which a Christ monument soars high over the area. There was a British standoff here a few hundred years ago and there are remains of a cemetery up there. Great views of the area.
Sanse is a gem for beach life and its a classy little town for sure but I had enough in 2 days.....it's a bit of a snob = there is a big rivalry with Bilbao an hour's busride away. There was great joy in Sanse when Barcaleno beat Bilbao in a match earlier this week.
Bilbao
I was told there wasn't much in Bilbao except Frank Ghery's incredible Guggenheim Museum. I found that not to be the case and I liked Bilbao a lot. It is a city that blends the old with the new very well. It's a bit seedy, ethnically vibrant and has a working-class vibe I liked. It has the old town and the downtown and the seedy neighbourhoods too – it felt like people lived here. It hand an energy lacking in Sanse or maybe Sanse is just so laid back that it doesn't have to do much...
Of course my big thrill was going to the Guggenheim – it was everything I expected and more. I was told that the architecture was great but that there wasn't much inside. I discovered there was a David Hockney exhibition – brilliant and vibrant Yorkshire man who had flavours of Van Gogh, Monet and Cezanne melded with Hockney's own vibrant palette of purples, reds and burnt orange. I was very impressed by his love of trees and the changing landscape and environment. I could easily live with any of his paintings and never be bored.
The building is an endless swaying, glossy titanium rectangles whose shape changes with the refracted light as it moves through the day. It is spectacular, magnificent and vibrant building. I could have spent days walking around it at different times of day witnessing its ever changing visage. Everyone should see this building – there is nothing else like it in this world = space-age and futuristic. It is a brilliant piece of art just by itself.
Bilbao is in process of redoing its harbour side and in the not so distant future you will be able to walk along its sidewalk and enjoy the approaching glistening edifice of the Guggenheim, Bilbao.
Sunday, May 27, 2012
Saturday, May 26, 2012
Landed Heathrow just fine and smooth ride to Liverpool on the train. R waiting patiently for me at Liverpool Parkway...lovely to see the folks and of course the old familiar sights of the homecity.
Pleasure to have M and M for a trek around town. The must sees = Penny Lane, Pier Head and the inevitable ferry across the Mersey. Lots of good pints of ale with the duo and hope they had a good time 0 just a glimpse really of what there is to see in Scouseland.
Must admit we had the best viewing of the Anglican Cathedral....private tour almost. Stroked the mouse and chatted at the Whispering Wall.....largest in europe and 3rd in world.
Mum thin and undernourished - getting legal help but its all so slow....no magic wands there I am afraid.
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
HEAT - that is the first thought - lovely, dry heat which maxed out at 34 degrees while I was there. Madrid is a very modern, clean and relaxed city. The buses are fast and spotless - drivers helpful and polite.
I had no problems getting around this grand city which s easy to enjoy and full of life. Took me a little while to relate to the different pace of life. Siesta and late night life are part of this culture - kids playing games late into the evening after the sun has gone down.
Beautiful parks, roses everywhere and great monuments to the triumphs of the Spanish conquests are everywhere. People love their dogs here and they came in all shapes and sizes parading around the city. No problems finding shade to rest in and certainly no lack of restaurants, bars and foods of all types. There are small shops everywhere selling everything. So much to see on every street.
The Thyssen was my favourite museum with a blend of art both ancient and modern - Georgia O'Keeffe missing - on loan....Prado a bit of a disappointment but enjoyed it non the less. Reina Sofia had some great Dalis and Picassos plus Mondrian, Kandinsky and so on....
Of course one cannot go to Spain without witnessing a demo and so did I - lots of police presence but no aggro on either side. I did not see any real poverty in the sense of homeless people - yes a few people begging but no more than anywhere else. I felt safe at all times and most folk here were friendly and polite.
Madrid is a modern, fashionable town that seems very sure of itself and had excellent transportation, good food and great people watching.
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